Appliqué
*For our class you will need to cut a 13” square of your background fabric for each appliqué block. When you do this in the future leave yourself an extra inch from what you want your finished size of block to be, allowing for any shrinkage as you add appliqué pieces.
*However you obtain your pattern find out if the pattern is REVERSED or NOT. Some patterns are not Reversed because they were made to be traced right-side up. We want our pattern reversed for Fusible web or Freezer Paper methods.
*If your appliqué has smaller pieces I recommend using the fusible web. If your appliqué has larger pieces and you don’t want extra weight or bulk on the block then use the freezer paper. The fusible web prevents you from cutting away the background fabric after the appliqué is sewn on since they are fused together. You can mix and match methods within the same block.
Fusible Web Method
1. Trace the REVERSED pattern onto the paper side of fusible web. Cut out each piece leaving the paper on the fusible web still.
2. Press the fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric for each piece following the directions for your web product. Leave a ¼” seam allowance for each piece when you press these patterns in place on the back of your fabric. Unlike the freezer paper the web cannot be moved once it is pressed on. Cut out the fabric allowing a ¼ inch (6mm) seam allowance for turning. Clip any inward curves; don’t clip all the way to the web paper or you will have fraying on the top.
3. Press the seams over to the wrong side of the fabric while the paper is still on.
4. Remove the paper from the fusible web. Baste down the raw edges to the web side of the fabric. You have two options for basting:
1. Baste down with a needle and thread. The knot should be on the right side of the piece for easy removal later.
2. Baste down with an iron. Carefully press the seams down and do not touch the iron to the fusible web in the center of the piece.
**Note, when two appliqué pieces will meet each other you don’t want bulk… the piece on bottom doesn’t need turned under, it will lay flat. The piece on top will be basted under for a finished edge.
5. When all the pieces are prepared as above lay them on the background fabric. Make sure you stay within an 11 ½ inch square in the center of the 13” background fabric. When you are happy with where all pieces are placed then press the pieces down with the iron according to the directions on your fusible web product. Make sure not to slide any pieces out of place in the process. Now all your pieces will stay in place until you get them sewn on.
6. Use a thread color that matches the piece being stitched down. Single thickness dual purpose thread is fine. Use the back whipstitch method I’ve demonstrated in class. Careful stitching on focus points can help keep the appliquéd piece looking sharp.
7. When all the pieces are appliquéd on remove any basting thread. Measure your block and cut to the appropriate size. For our class that is 12 ½ inches square.
Freezer Paper Method
1. Trace the REVERSED pattern onto the dull side of freezer paper. Cut out each piece.
2. Press the freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric Leave a ¼” seam allowance for each piece when you press these patterns on the back of your fabric. Cut the fabric with a ¼ inch (6mm) seam allowance for turning. Clip any inward curves; don’t clip all the way to the freezer paper or you will have fraying on the top.
3. Press the seams over to the wrong side of the fabric with the paper still in place.
4. On any small pieces it may be easier to remove the freezer paper now. Baste down the raw edges with a needle and thread.
**Note, when two appliqué pieces will meet each other you don’t want bulk… the piece on bottom doesn’t need turned under, it will lay flat. The piece on top will be basted under for a finished edge.
5. When all the pieces are prepared as above lay them on the background fabric. Make sure you stay within an 11 ½ inch square in the center of the 13” background fabric. When you are happy with where all pieces are pin them in place. Try to avoid creating a large bump where the pins are.
6. Use a thread color that matches the piece being stitched down. Single thickness dual purpose thread is fine. Use the back whipstitch method I demonstrated in class. Remove the pin directly at the spot you are sewing down to make sure the appliqué lays flat and then sew down.
7. When all the pieces have been stitched to the background fabric you can reduce the thickness of the layers of fabric by cutting away the background fabric beneath the appliqué. Leave a ¼ inch seam under these. Be careful not to cut to the sewing line or cut through the appliqué pieces on top.
8. Remove all freezer paper, and the basting thread. Measure your block and cut to the appropriate size. For our class that is 12 ½ inches square.
If you choose to machine appliqué use the fusible web method and make sure to use a stabilizer behind the background fabric or your background fabric will pucker. There are some ‘tear-away’ stabilizers that are nice because you tear away the excess after sewing. Follow any directions given on the stabilizer. Step 6 would change to using your machine to sew the pieces down. You will see the machine stitches. The following website gives a good explanation for machine appliqué.
http://www.islandnet.com/~agreig/applique.htm